It’s
fun to live in the sun but hard to make a living. One option is to run
a B&B. In France, Brits have opened so many that it has become
known as the maladie anglaise. The market is saturated, not only
because of all the Brits who own B&Bs, but also because an
increasing number of British holidaymakers now own houses there, so
they no longer need to rent a room.
Italy’s Le Marche region is proving a popular alternative
destination. Between the Adriatic Sea and the Appenine Mountains, it is
famous for great food, culture, rolling hills and cheap stone
farmhouses: an irresistible combination for the expat.
Richard
Dixon and Peter Greene bought a 12th-century property near Cagli, close
to Urbino, in 1988. It cost them £17,000, and has two cottages, a
vineyard and some land, with stunning views to the mountains beyond.
When they first arrived, there was a huge choice available.
“We picked this one because it had two properties and it was close to
the main road,” says Greene. “Some of the others we saw are totally cut
off in winter; not very helpful if you’re trying to run a B&B
business.”
He was working as a barrister in London and Dixon was a PR
officer for the Greater London Council. “We were 32 and 36 and just
wanted a change,” says Greene. “It felt like the right time to do it.
And for £17,000, we couldn’t go wrong.” They set up their business a
couple of years after moving over.
“A lot of people just rush into renovations and starting up
the business, but it’s essential to get a feel for the house before you
start knocking down walls.”
They rent out a cottage, which sleeps four, and a chapel,
which sleeps two. “It has worked out well, but I have to say that when
I look at some of the sums of money people are spending on wrecks now,
I wonder how they are ever going to break even.”
Greene says that learning Italian is essential. He and Dixon
recently won a battle against a local quarryman who wanted to dig up
all the fields in front of the cottage they let. “We wouldn’t have got
anywhere if we hadn’t spoken Italian. As it was, it was an extremely
stressful time. My other piece of advice is to keep everything above
board: it’s very easy to cheat the system, but it’s just not worth it.
You need to get all your permissions in place, because if something
goes wrong, like a quarry plan, you need to show what you’re doing and
that you’ve followed every rule.”
There are three different legal structures for letting
businesses in Italy. The simplest is the B&B, but the most rooms
you can let out is three. At the end of the year, you file a simple
declaration, and there is no Vat. The tax payable is graded depending
on your income: the lowest band is up to €20,000 (£14,000). You have to
be resident at the place, but there are no business taxes: B&Bs are
rated family enterprises.
The “country house” structure is more complicated but allows
eight rooms and a restaurant. You need to be in the countryside and
will have to pay business taxes. If you want to go for Italy’s
agriturismo structure, you have to prove that at least 50% of your
income is from your farm or agricultural concern. Subsidies are
available for all three structures, so find out what you might be
eligible for. The best place to ask is the chamber of commerce or
Confcommercio (www.confcommercio.it).
Jane and Ian Foster bought an old wine co-operative near the
village of Cupramontana, close to Ancona, in 2001. They paid £60,000
for it and have spent about £400,000 doing it up. They let out three
bedrooms.
“It’s been great,” says Jane. “But my advice to anyone is to
really check your contract with your builders. You have to understand
what is included and what is not, otherwise you could end up with
beautifully tiled floors and no electricity.” Her husband agrees. “We
have gone at least £50,000 over budget and we’re not finished yet. You
should add 25% to your estimated cost and 25% to the time you think
it’s going to take you, and then you may be coming close.”
The couple looked elsewhere before settling on Le Marche.
“Tuscany was overrun with Brits and twice the price,” says Jane, who
used to work for London Underground. “We came here to integrate into
the community. We love the food, the countryside and the people.”
Giuliano Gnagnatti, whose company, Paradise Possible, promotes
the region, says there are still about 60,000 abandoned farmhouses
available. “But when we started the business in 1997, there were about
100,000. Prices have gone up dramatically since then,” he says. “A lot
of that is due to Ryanair starting a daily flight to Ancona in 1999.”
Gnagnatti says a four-bed farmhouse needing restoration will
cost about £150,000, and a ruin about £60,000- £105,000. Higher-quality
restoration work costs about £700 per sq m; lower-quality work about
£400 per sq m.
The rental market is vibrant. There is a lot to see and do; it
is one of the few places in Italy where you can visit both beach and
mountains the same day.
“The main thing you should consider if you’re looking to set
up a B&B is the location,” says Gnagnatti. “You need to be easily
accessible, as well as within a short drive to the main attractions.”
Eileen Cronin-Salomone, originally from Ireland but brought up
in London, had already lived in Italy for several years before she set
up a B&B.
“I was married to an Italian but when he died I sold up and
went home,” she says. “That was in 1988. Then four years ago I suddenly
realised how much I missed the way of life and the quality of life in
Italy. I wanted to go back.”
Cronin-Salomone viewed about 600 houses in several regions before finding an old squire’s house near San Ginesio.
“It was my 50th birthday and the agent showed up where I was
staying, telling me he had three places for me to see. I told him that
I had a party to plan but he insisted. My daughter Erika and I went
along. The first two were dreadful and by the time I had fought my way
through the brambles to see the third I was in a terrible mood. Then I
turned around to talk to Erika and I was right under the Sibellini
Mountains.”
Cronin-Salomone, 53, paid £95,000 for the house and has spent
another £245,000 doing it up. She now has three en-suite bedrooms that
she lets. “People think running a B&B is a joy ride — it’s not,”
she says. “Having said that, I absolutely love it. If I’m ever in a bad
mood I just need to look at the mountains to remember why I’m here and
how special it is.”
Although Le Marche has a lovely coast, the British are more
interested in the interior, says Fabrizio Fangonesi, who runs
Immobiliare Ambiente in Sirolo. “They all want old stone houses,” he
says. “In fact, they’ve caused a big price increase in properties to
renovate, but the market is stabilising now.”
There are plenty of places available with letting
possibilities. If you can face renovating, Paradise Possible has a
16-room farmhouse for sale near Arcevia, for £140,000.
Valentino Cingolani, who runs agency Lovemarche, says the
influx of Brits here peaked in 2002 and has stabilised. “However, I
think it will pick up soon because Ryanair has just announced it is
going to start flights from Liverpool to Ancona.”
Pam and David Bates bought an abandoned farmhouse, between the
coast and the Sibillini Mountains in 2001 for £42,000. It has three
storeys, with 330sq m of living space. They opened for business in
2003. “Just like the television programmes, we were ready, literally,
10 minutes before the first guest walked in,” says Pam. They spent
about £240,000 doing up the property and will break even this year.
“It’s not an easy way to make a living,” she says. “You’re on
call 24/7 and you need to be on top of the marketing at all times. I
spend at least an hour every day on the internet, raising our profile
with search engines.”
Pam’s advice is to start with a good business plan. “Lots of
people just come over and say they’re going to run a B&B. That’s
all very well, but how are you going to get your punters? You need to
be internet-savvy and to know about marketing. I carry leaflets around
the whole time and set myself targets of how many I have to distribute
per month.”
She still works in London for an event firm, while her husband
and daughter run Villa Sibillini. David says that despite the
downsides, it’s worth it: “You’re never going to get rich, but you have
the benefits of living in beautiful countryside, serving good food and
wine. What could be better?”
On the market
This seven-bed hilltop house, in five acres, could be converted to a
B&B or agriturismo. It is a 40-minute drive from Ancona and is for
sale for €646,000 with Lovemarche, 00 44 7837 232 347, www.lovemarche.com
Located in the Macerata hills, a 30-minute drive from Ancona,
this five-bed house has an annexe. For sale for €201,000 with Paradise
Possible, 00 44 7764 475 331, www.paradisepossible.com
In central Marche, this former farmhouse is fully restored. With
five bedrooms, it has panoramic views and a pool. It is for sale for
€667,000 with Paradise Possible, 00 44 7764 475 331, www.paradisepossible.com
This restoration project near Macerata has 300 sq m of space in the
main house, plus outbuildings. It is for sale for €165,000 with Italian
Property, 00 39 0575 605 191, www.italianproperty.eu.com
Richard Dixon and Peter Greene, 00 39 0721 790 215, www.le-marche.com/rental; Jane and Ian Foster, 00 39 0731 789 657, www.cantinone.co.uk; Pam and David Bates, 00 39 0733 653 081, www.villasibillini.com; Casa Nostra, 00 39 0733 656 913, www.casa-nostra.it
Immobiliare Ambiente, 00 39 071 933 1821, www.immobiliareambiente.it
